Construction:CHEMISE: The first thing I made was the chemise. It was very simple, I cut out a rectangle of fabric that had been folded in half (for the shoulders, so I didn't have to sew any shoulder seams), sewed up the sides, hemmed the sleeves, neck (I did the neck in blue thread because it looks pretty and makes it more interesting) and the bottom and attached some decoration. Then the chemise was done. Very easy.
CORSET: Next I made the corset. This was by far the hardest piece. After watching several videos, I had some sort of plan. I made a pattern by placing masking tape directly on my doll in the shape of the corset (I only had to tape one side, since I would flip the pattern over to create the other side). Then I used some leftover bits of pattern paper I had saved to trace the pattern onto paper. Using this pattern, which was highly accurate since I had traced it directly off the doll, I cut sixteen pieces of fabric out. The corset would have two layers of fabric and for each full layer I had to cut eight pieces. When I cut the pieces, I made sure to give seam allowance. I used a sturdier fabric for the inside and a pale pink fabric for the outside. After a few mishaps, I found a way to put everything together that worked. I would sew the corresponding pieces right sides together at the sides. Then I would inside them out so the seams were hidden. I connected all of the pieces together by stitching them with blue thread, sewing on the outside. Real corsets have "boning" which used to be whale bone. The boning is what gives it its support and rigid shape. Of course I had no whale bone or even the synthetic, modern replacement for whale bone (I think steel boning is also used). So I had to get creative. Using leftover pieces of headpins (a very thin piece of metal to place beads on) from my jewelry making box, I slid these metal scraps into the pieces of the corset and kept them in place with the seams. There are two metal pieces at every seam, as well as a couple pieces in the front. (See, this is why you never throw anything away!) Once everything had been put together, I made some holes in the back, finished them sort of like button holes so they wouldn't fray and laced it up with button thread (it's thicker than regular). I also finished the top and bottom edges with some ribbon, which is now starting to come off since it wasn't quite big enough to cover the edge and my stitches are coming away from the fabric. The corset of course looks a little funny and didn't quite fit perfectly, but it did turn out pretty well, considering that it was my first try and I made no mock ups to test the pattern. DRAWERS: After that difficult, yet fun experience, I moved onto the drawers. These were done quickly and were quite easy. Using a pants pattern I already had, I simply made them a little shorter and added lace to the edges. I closed the back with Velcro. (I said it wasn't 100% historically accurate!) The sewing machine made this project go a lot faster (I had hand sewn everything so far in this project) PETTICOAT: This was simple as well. I cut a rectangle, gathered it to a waistband and used Velcro for the closure. I also used the machine for most of this project. DRESS: This was more complicated than most of the other garments, but not AS complicated as the corset. I rummaged through the fabric stash(es) to find some fabric. I had some I wanted to use, but I wasn't sure how this project would go and didn't want to waste it. I chose this green print and actually I consider it somewhat historically accurate as some of the 1860s dresses I saw in YouTube videos had some pretty crazy prints. After choosing my fabric, I used a pattern I already had to make the bodice. It is a simple, square sort of bodice. I did not make any darts. I did make it shorter than the original pattern and put a row of stitches down the front to create the illusion that it is a front closure bodice. I also cut the front section larger than called for, because I was worried about getting it to fit over all the undergarments, but ended up cutting off the extra. For the skirt, I cut a large rectangle. After deciding I wanted the skirt to be even fuller (the skirts of this time period were HUGE), I added another piece and sewed it to the larger piece. I gathered it (hand-sewing for this part, I used the machine for all the big seams and most hems) and after some pinning and re-pinning, got it attached to the bodice with hand stitches. The sleeves were made with a already existing pattern, however I made them a little larger at the top and gathered them, then attached them to the bodice. I had to hem the bottom of the skirt again as it was too long ( I always over estimate my skirt length, but better too long than too short!). After sewing up the back seam on the skirt, I sewed on a snap button and some Velcro for the closure. So, basically it was done. However, to make it go from a plain old dress to one of my favorites, I had to add some little gold beads to resemble buttons on the bodice and create a collar and for a final touch, add a little red bow. Now I rate it as one of my top favorite projects. (It's all in the details!)
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